Production of yarn containing hair fibers



Aug. 30, 1960 s. MANDUKICH PRODUCTION OF YARN CONTAINING HAIR FIBERSFiled Nov. 7, 195a mm mm finnnfln km United States Patent Ofiice2,950,591 Patented Aug. 30, 1960 2,9se,s91

PRODUCTION or YARN coNrAmnsG HAIR mans Svetozar Mandulrich, New York,N.Y., assignor to Neely Manufacturing Company, York, S.C., a corporationof South Carolina Filed Nov. 7, 1958, Ser- No. 772,510

9 Claims. (Cl. 57-157) This invention relates to the production of yarncon taining a substantial proportion of goat hair and suitable for useas the filling in the weaving of hair canvas of the kind employed forgarment interlinings and for like purposes. More particularly, theinvention is concerned with a novel method of making a yarn of thestated type, in which the goat hair fibers are relatively short and maybe noils produced in a combing operation. A hair canvas woven with afilling made of the yarn produced by the practice of the method of theinvention may have the desired resilience, appearance, hand, and othercharacteristics of hair canvas as made heretofore and is substantiallycheaper, since the method can be carried out on the cottom system andthe short goat hair fibers are much cheaper than those in the combedyarns previously used.

At the present time, hair canvas for garment interlinings is woven witha warp of yarns of various fibers and a filling of yarn spun from ablend of goat hair and synthetic fibers, such as rayon, with or withouta proportion of wool fibers. A typical hair yarn may contain 40% goathair and 60% rayon fibers and a three component yarn may contain 40%goat hair, 20% wool, and 40% rayon. The goat hair fibers make the yarnstiff and impart resilience to the fabric, in which the yarn is used,while the rayon fibers bind the hair fibers in the yarn and relievetheir harshness. The wool fibers replace a part of the hair fibers andgive a desirable wooly appearance and hand to the fabric. In theproduction of the yarn, the worsted system is used and the card sliveris subjected to a combing operation in which fibers of a staple lengthbelow a selected minimum, for example, 2", are discarded. Such noils ofgoat hair and wool have a staple length ranging from A" to 2", While thediscarded rayon fibers usually range in length from 1%,, to 2".Heretofore, the noil mixtures of goat hair, wool, and rayon fibers andof goat hair and rayon fibers have been regarded as useless for theproduction of hair yarn and have represented a substantial loss.

I have found that a hair yarn, which can be used in the weaving of ahair canvas fully as acceptable commercially as that made heretoforewith yarn of long staple length, can be produced from the mixtures ofgoat hair, wool, and synthetic fibers and of goat hair and syn theticfibers now discarded as noils in the production of hair yarn. Inproducing the yarn, I utilize the cotton system and I employmodifications of the system particularly in the production of the finalroving which is spun into the yarn.

For a better understanding of the invention, reference may be made tothe accompanying drawing, in which:

Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic plan view of the rolls of a drawing frame withends of sliver of two different kinds being fed thereto in accordancewith the invention; and

Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic side elevational view of parts of a rovingframe, in which a sliver and a roving are drafted and formed into aroving in accordance with the invention.

In the practice of the method, I prepare a sandwich batch of noils whichcontains the fibers desired in the yarn in relative proportionsdetermined by the proportions of the fibers to be present in the yarn. Atypical batch may contain a mixture of 70% of goat hair and 30% of woolnoils, a mixture of 40% of goat hair and 60% of 5.5 denier rayon noils,and a quantity of 3 denier rayon fibers of 1%," staple length. The useof rayon as the synthetic fiber component is not critical and othersynthetic fibers of the types now in commercial use may be employedinstead of the rayon fibers. The batch of fibers is processed in theusual blending and picking equipment of the cottom system and lapssuitable for treatment in a cotton card of the revolving fiat or rollertypes are produced. The carding operation produces a sliver, which maybe of a suitable weight, such as 55 grains.

The next operation is that of drawing the card sliver and for thispurpose a standard four or five roll drawing frame may be used, such asthe four roll frame shown diagrammatically in Fig. l. A plurality ofends of the sliver are supplied to the frame from the usual cans or inthe form of a lap and, after passage through the pairs of rolls 10, 11,12, and 13, the drafted ends are combined by passage through a trumpet14 and a pair of delivery rolls 15, 16 and the resulting sliver iscoiled and deposited in a can. In the drawing operation, I supply endsof rayon sliver to the drawing frame simultaneously with the ends of thecard sliver of the blend of fibers and such rayon sliver is of about thesame weight as the card sliver and is made by similar operations. Therayon fibers in the rayon sliver are used to bind in short goat hair andwool fibers and I find that best results in this connection are obtainedwhen ends of rayon sliver are supplied to the drawing frame at oppositesides of the group of ends of card sliver. Thus, as shown in Fig. l, Imay feed eight ends 17 of card sliver side by side to the rear rolls 11of the frame and, at the same time, I feed two ends 18 of rayon sliveras the outer members of the group of ten ends. With this arrangement,the rayon fibers tend to lie at the surface of the resultant sliverproduct.

II he sliver produced on the drawing frame may then go to a roving framebut I prefer to subject the drawing frame sliver to a second drawingoperation. In this operation, a number of ends of the sliver determinedby the weight of the sliver, the draft of the frame, and the weight ofthe sliver product desired are supplied to the frame and, after beingdrafted, are combined into a single end and collected in a can.

The drawing frame sliver is next converted into a roving on a typicalroving frame which may be of the three, four, or five roll or high drafttypes. In the three roll frame shown, the sliver 19 is drawn from itscan and passes through the usual trumpet 22 on its way to the rear rolls20, 21 and it is drafted in the Zone between those rolls and the middlerolls 23, 24 and further drafted in the Zone between the middle rollsand the front rolls 25, 26. From the front rolls, the drawn productpasses to the usual fiyer and is wound on a bobbin.

In a yarn produced on the cotton system from a blend of fibers such as Ihave described, the goat hair fibers are substantially uniformlydistributed through the yarn and it develops that a fabric containingsuch yarn does not have the resilience of a comparable fabric containinggoat hair as heretofore produced. Also, the fabric made with the yarncontaining goat hair fibers of short staple length is substantiallyuniform 'in color and is distinguishable in this respect from haircanvas as previous- 1y made, which has dark spots and streaks. I havefound that a yarn which gives the desired resilience to hair canvas, canbe made from ablend containing short goat hairs by a simple modificationof the roving operation to cause additional hair fibers to be added atintervals to the sliver being fed to the frame. The resultant rovingthen contains hair fibers in non-uniform distribution as does the yarnproduced therefrom and the yarn both imparts the'desired resilience tothe fabric and also gives it an appearance resembling that of presenthair canvas.

The addition of hair fibers at intervals to the drawing frame sliver 19being fed to the roving frame is effected by providing the frame withfeed rolls 2%, 29, by which a roving 30 is supplied intermittently toenter each trumpet 22 with the sliver 19 passing to that trumpet. Theroving 30 contains a substantially higher proportion of goat hair fibersthan the sliver 19 and may contain 90% of hair fibers and rayon fibersalthough, if desired, part of the hair fibers may be replaced by woolfibers. The size of the roving may vary in accordance with the size ofthe sliver and the final proportions of the constituent fibers to bepresent in the yarn. I have found that a roving suitable for use with a55 gr. sliver may be a .40 hank roving having a twist of .9 turn perinch.

The intermittent feed of the roving 30 is accomplished by advancing therolls 28, 29 stepwise and, for this purdifi'erent fibers used to obtaindifferent efiects are substantially the same as thoseemployed inproducing hair pose, the roll 29 may be provided with a ratchet wheel 31engaged by a springpressed pivoted pawl 32 operated by a cam 33 or theroll may be driven by a chain. The length of roving fed may range from/s to 1" or more and the spacing along the sliver 19 between successivelengths of roving is a multiple of at least 2 of such a length ofroving. I have obtained good results by feeding /s" of roving in eachoperation and timing the feeding so that of sliver is fed for each suchlength of roving fed.

When the apparatus is in normal operation, the end of the roving issuingfrom rolls 28, 29 lies on top of the sliver 19, which is being drawncontinuously through the trumpet 22 by the rolls 20, 21, and the slivertends to pull the end of the roving into the trumpet. When the rolls 28,29 advance, the end of the roving begins to move through the trumpetwith the roving and, when rolls 28, 29 stop, the pull of the sliver onthe end portion of the roving causes the roving to break. The breaknormally occurs in the trumpet and the detached end portion of theroving then moves along with the sliver through the pairs of draftingrolls of the frame. The length of the detached section varies with thelength of the advance of rolls 28, 29.

In the roving frame, the roving produced contains an uneven distributionof hair fibers and, when this roving is spun into a yarn, the yarn alsocontains the hair fibers in non-uniform arrangement. In the productionof the roving 30, the rayon used is black and, as the goat hair fiberswhich predominate in the roving, are dark, the feeding of the rovingintermittently to the drafting zone of the roving frame results in colorVariations along the roving issuing from the frame. The final yarn spunfrom the roving is similarly irregular both in hair fiber distributionand in color.

The yarn produced by the method of the invention may contain goat hairand synthetic fibers or goat hair, wool, and synthetic fibers in varyingproportions determined by the characteristics desired in the fabric, inwhich the yarn is used, and, in all instances, contains not less than20% of hair fibers. The proportions of the yarn at present and the yarnproduced by the method of the invention can be used with whollysatisfactory results to replace hair yarn made by prior methods. At thesame time, the yarn made by the new method is substantially cheaper thanprior hair yarn in that it is made of fibers previously discarded aswaste and is produced on the cotton system instead of on the worstedsystem.

I claim:

1. A method of making a yarn, which comprises forming a sliver ofsynthetic fibers and one member of the class made up of goat hair fibersand a mixture of goat hair and wool fibers with at least 20% of thesliver consisting of goat hair fibers, forming a second sliver ofsynthetic fibers, simultaneously drawing a plurality of ends of thefirst sliver and a lms number of ends of the second sliver to form athird sliver, feeding a continuous length of the third sliver to adrafting zone and simultaneously feeding to the Zone, to be draftedwiththe sliver, spaced lengths of a roving of synthetic fibers and onemember of the class made up of goat hair fibers and a mixture of goathair and wool fibers, the roving containing a substantially higherproportion'of goat hair fibers than the third sliver, twisting theproduct issuing from the drafting zone to form a final roving, andspinning the final roving into yarn.

2. The method of claim 1, in which the goat hair fibers are present inthe third sliver and the roving drafted therewith in such amounts thatthe yarn contains at least 20% of goat hair fibers.

3. The method of claim 1, in which the goat hair and wool fibers have astaple length not substantially greater than 2".

4. The method of claim 1, in which the operations are performed on thecotton system.

5. The method of claim 1, in which the spacing along the third sliverbetween successive lengths of the roving fed therewith to the draftingzone is a multiple of at least 2 of a length of roving fed. a

6. The method of claim 1, in Which the lengths of roving fed to thedrafting zone with the third sliver range from Me" to 1".

7. The method of claim 1, in which about A" of the third sliver is fedto the drafting zone for each A3" of roving fed to the zone.

8. The method of claim 1, in which, in the simultaneous drawing of thefirst and second sliver, the ends of the slivers are fed side by side ina group to a drafting zone and the outermost ends in the group are endsof the second sliver.

9. The method of claim 1, in which a plurality of ends of the thirdsliver are subjected to adrafting operation to produce a fourth sliverand the fourth sliver is fed continuously to a drafting zone while aroving is fed intermittently thereto.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS

1. A METHOD OF MAKING A YARN, WITH COMPRISES FORMING A SILVER OFSYNTHETIC FIBERS AND ONE MEMBER OF THE CLASS MADE UP OF GOAT HAIR FIBERSAND A MIXTURE OF GOAT HAIR AND WOOL FIBERS WITH AT LEAST 20% OF THESILVER CON SISTING OF GOAT HAIR FIBERS, FORMING A SECOND OF SYNTHETICFIBERS, SIMULTANEOUSLY DRAWING A PLURALITY OF ENDS OF THE FIRST SILVERAND A LESS NUMBER OF ENDS OF THE SECOND SILVER TO FORM A THIRD SILVER,FEEDING A CONTINUOUS LENGTH OF THE THIRD SILVER TO A DRAFTING ZONE ANDSIMULTANEOUSLY FEEDING TO THE ZONE, TO BE DRAFTED WITH THE SILVER,SPACED LENGTHS OF A ROVING OF SYNTHETIC FIBERS AND ONE MEMBER OF THECLASS MADE UP OF GOAT HAIR FIBERS AND A MIXTURE